I’VE always had a soft spot for Rick Stein. He always seems so affable on the telly, like he’d be great to chew the fat with over a glass or two.

But I’d never made it to one of his ‘proper’ restaurants (I’m not counting chips from his chippy in Padstow).

So, despite these unusual times, I was looking forward to trying out the new menu at Rick Stein Marlborough, freshly reopened after the landlord came to the rescue wiping some arrears.

Earlier in the day, Rick himself was in, but sadly not when I got there. We were shown to one of the rooms, complete with reasonably well-spaced tables. For our first meal out since pre-March we were a little trepidatious but it felt OK.

The place itself was bustling, busy with locals obviously thrilled to have the High Street landmark open again. This was a pre-opening night where we were invited to sample bite-sized versions of main menu dishes.

The nine courses kicked off with saganaki halloumi - basically the squeaky cheese in a moreish herb and honey dressing.

We both enjoyed this, mopping every drop of the sauce up.

The salt cod brandade (a mix of the fish, potatoes and olive oil) was a one-bite wonder.

A paper-thin melba toast topped with smoked mackerel pate was next - we’re a household that loves this.

And it didn’t disappoint, feather light and full of flavour.

Scallops don’t get a look in at my house - the other half has a shellfish allergy, so a grilled scallop with hazelnut and coriander butter was the dish I was most looking forward to.

Served in its shell it was pretty as you like, the butter being a perfect foil for the scallop’s sweetness.

The four mains all came together – Indonesian seafood curry, warm salad of wood pigeon, mackerel recheado and crisp Chinese pork belly.

The curry - apparently the menu’s best-seller – is made up of sea bass, prawns and cod in a smooth but spiky sauce. It’s easy to see why this is popular.

The pigeon we were a little nervous of, it can be a strong meat. But this came served thinly sliced and was all the better for it.

It changed both our minds about pigeon.

The fish – billed as ‘lightly-spiced' – was a firey number, possibly a little too hot, but the strong mackerel flavour stood up to it well.

And the pork? Well it might not have been crispy but it was delicious - a melt-in-the-mouth portion that left us wanting more.

Pudding was memorable - chocolate, peanuts, caramel - who doesn’t like that classic combo.

And then we were done and back out into the night air, another post-lockdown experience ticked off.

Rick Stein Marlborough is certainly a great boon for the town and I can only echo the views of those sitting around us, who were thrilled to have it back.

The food stretches from a set menu with two courses for £20.95, three for £25.95, to top-end dishes like Cornish lobster (£32.95) and wild turbot (£42.50). Most pockets should be able to find something that suits.

PETE GAVAN